20.5 kilometers east of Paris, just a short hop by train
in Marne-la-Vallée area, lies the glorious
Chateau Champs sur Marne. Built in 1699 'Champs' has an illustrious past. Once home to Duc de La Vallière, the Princess de Conti (daughter of Louis XIV) and later Madame de Pompadour, Louis XV's glamorous mistress. Bought in the 1880's by Comte Louis Cahen d’Anvers, a weathly banker, whose son donated the mansion to the state in 1935 when crippling death taxes meant he was unable to keep it, the mansion was then used as residence for French Presidents where celebrities, VIPs and heads of state were entertained until the 70's. Today, after undergoing a full restoration, the house is a gem with stunning interiors and enviable furniture set out as if the Cahen d'Anvers were still in residence. The classic french parterre garden and structured landscape is magnificent radiating on a long axis at front and back of the building with two large ornamental fountains. If you only have a short time in Paris this is an easy afternoon trip.
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| Walking to the train from Ile St Louis, we stopped into the Hotel Hospitel next-door to Notre Dame on Ile d la Cite where we found this extraordinary statue (above left). Originally representing French surgeon Guillaume Dupuytren, Born 1777, the statue is painted each year by Med Students as a different character. Not sure if this year he's Elvis, Liberace or ??. At Noisiel the allee of chestnuts led us to the gates of the chateau. |
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| Loved these charming statues of children and dogs either side of the entrance to the house. |
Touring with dear friends from Toronto, Roberto and Gerard, whom I'd seen at Versailles earlier in the week, we stopped en-route in the village of Noisiel for a quick coffee at a local bar. The jovial host made his way around the restaurant welcoming each patron, stopping to chat, infusing warmth into our experience of this very ordinary little working class town. Strolling for 20 minutes through an allee of flowering chestnut's, then following a tall stone wall, we arrive at the moated gates of the chateau. (Sadly no water in the moat) Arriving before the house opened at midday, we picnicked in the garden, eating luscious baguettes stuffed with smoked duck or ham we'd bought earlier on the Ile Saint-Louis where my friends had an apartment. Once again we had the garden to ourselves, lounging on old wicker chairs positioned to catch the sun and the view of fountains and the parterre. Divine!
Inside the house was sublime. I've been lucky enough to visit some of the great house museums, chateaux, castles and stately homes in Europe, but this little Chateau was the most charming. The sense of style and taste of the interior design and furnishings is both fabulous and intimate. I only hope my photo's do it justice.
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| The main reception rooms have painted panelling, lush upholstery and ornate gilt and crystal chandeliers. |
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| The second story hallway adorned with pale statues, gilt lanterns and ethereal painted ceiling(top right) |
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| Glorious silk draped beds in all the bedrooms which are hung with dazzling chandeliers. |
We finished our tour with a ramble through the park and gardens. I loved
the rectangular clipped trees and roses in the English Potager garden.
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| With Roberto in the gardens of Champs sur Marne. Behind us are rectangular clipped trees and parterre gardens. Beyond are the wild meadows, vivid orange poppies in the potager and classic urns and statues. |
