French is the first language but don’t be discouraged, learn to say ” parle vous anglais s’il vous plait”, “bonjour” and “merci” to everyone, ditch the burgers and fries then embrace tortiere, poutine and fois gras and make like a canadienne. Think divine pasteurized cheeses, french wines, Prince Edward Island lobster, oysters and mussels and pork, pork and more pork (they do it better than anyone), Montreal smoked meat sandwiches, maple syrup and Canadian bacon, french crepes with nutella and lots of snow!
Montreal, nestled at the base of Mont Royale on the St Lawrence river, is divine in the winter. Huge lit angels line the front of the Notre Dame cathedral in the Vieux Port (historic old port). Undulating streets are festooned in blue lights with bohemian flair not seen elsewhere. Stroll down Place Jacques Cartier, take in a fireworks display over the river, stroll along Rue St Denis or indulge at the Marche Atwater or Marche Jean Talon where you can purchase croissants and coffee amongst Montreal’s fav farmers market. European flair oozes from the funky boutiques on Rue St Denis or St Laurent. Dive into L’express or famous Au pied d’cochon for lunch or dinner. For seafood try Garde Manger in the old port.
US Skiers, drive up through Vermont, ski at Jay Peak then wend your way through the villages of the Eastern townships to Montreal, ski Mt Sutton or Bromont. Ontarians just follow the St Lawerence River north. Skiers and borders can choose from many resorts in the Laurentians but we love Mt Tremblant. Its super easy to get around, you can ski in ski out from great hotels and condos, dine and shop in the village, nibble beaver tails (delicious sugar coated pastry) on the slopes and enjoy the pretty scenery and lakes. This is a great family destination with European flair just on our doorstep.
Further north ski Mont Sainte Anne, thirty minutes north of Quebec city or Massif another 50 mins north on the river. Massif’s spectacular slopes mean you ski down to the river, (pack extra warm face mask and gloves as temps drop to -5 F in January!) buy a lunch voucher with your lift ticket and enjoy a luxurious, gourmet, silver service lunch overlooking the ski resort in chic surroundings. The experience is exhilirating all round.
My all time fav is Vieux Quebec, a two hour drive north of Montreal. We spent xmas there last year. It’s the only walled city in north America, this 400 year old fortified town was the birthplace of Canada and is truly French. Stay at the Chateau Frontenac or the Auberge St Antoine, sled down the cliff in front of the Chateau on antique wooden sleds, try frozen maple sugar rolled on a stick from a shack overlooking the mighty frozen St Lawrence River that dominates the landscape. The narrow cobbled streets, charming stone houses, pretty churches, impressive art galleries, funicular that connects the old town to the charming streets of the lower town make for a magical and romantic holiday destination. Visit the Musee du Fort, the kids will love the diorama that tells the story of the battles that won Quebec for the British in the 1700’s. Its a great story.
My outstanding memory of Quebec is that people look happy. Its freezing cold, you have to walk everywhere on slippery cobbles, but can skate under the stars and you feel apart of something old and precious. the locals race canoes across the frozen river, sleigh bells chime along with church bells. It’s extremely beautiful and everyone smiles. Vivre la Quebec!
This is a lifetime must do trip and its just across the Ontario or New York border!
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