Whirlwind tour of New Zealand with the Hartshorn family Jan 2013

It was crazy but we decided we'd swoop Mac and Jennifer Hartshorn and their two girls, Madelaine and Cameron up from their flight in from Sydney and zoom them straight into camp mode two hours north at Pip's family beach property.

I know they thought it was insane, our travelers were tired after Christmas in Aus and New Year celebrations the day before, but the looks on their faces when they saw the beach campsite was worth the pain.

We took 5 days to chill out at the beach, sadly the weather did not play ball. A chill wind blew from the south and I doled out winter merino layers and scarves to our North Americans who were expecting balmier climes.

Fresh oysters, picked by yours truly and shucked by Pip and the girls washed down by champers and other good things made up for any discomfit. So did waking up just feet from the seashore, even the seabirds keeping up their chorus day and night didn't phase our guests.

Our adventures south began with a quick overnight at our Stratus apartment and a night time recce of the Wyndham quarter and Viaduct. Next morning saw us board the first flight to Queenstown and after another whirl around that village we boarded the Earnslaw for the trip down to Walter Peak Station. I'd been there nearly forty years ago and was kind of disappointed that it was no longer a station but a show farm for tourists. That said it's still beautiful, nestled under the towering peaks and the sheep are still sheep needed all the same care. We lunched there, saw the farm show and headed back to QT on the ancient steamship.

Next stop, Te Anau, to overnight before heading down to Milford where we were to have a night out on the sound in a sailing ship. Before that we enjoyed the charming garden at our accommodation, ate fantastic food in Te Anau that night and hopped on board the morning cruise across the mirror calm lake to the Glow worm caves. It was hard not to marvel at the fresh snow on the peaks, shining clearly in the morning sunshine.

Grabbing sandwiches from the local shop Pip steered our 7 seater down the road to Milford Sound.

We were stunned by the beauty of the beech trees lining the road, the Mirror lakes and vistas of pristine Jurassic Park worthy valleys which honestly looked like you might just see a veggie dinosaur browsing the treetops! After a few photo stops, we were trundling along when all four girls in the car yelled spontaneously in unison "Stop the car". Oh my God. All my dreams came true. There before us was an entire valley floor carpeted with pink, blue and white lupins at the height of their season. Literally breathtaking, the colour, the enormity of the carpet of flowers was mind-blowing. Even the men were impressed. Truly one of the wonders of the world. Butterflies fluttered, bees buzzed. Birds sang. Our camera's clicked a crazed staccato to capture the beauty.

Reluctantly, our four o'clock schedule in mind, we wended our way onward to the Homer tunnel, admiring the changing scenery as the treeline fell away and the peaks became towering grey cathedrals where waterfalls fell like fluttering ribbons down into great schist slides.

Did I mention that the date was January the 11th! Summer forsooth! Not that you'd notice the way we were bundled up in feather-down vests and warm jeans. Anyhoo I left the gang in the Milford Sound car-park and hightailed it into the visitor centre to check in, only to find out overnight cruise had been cancelled!!! Due to a huge snow storm heading into the area from the Tasman Sea overnight. Disaster! We'd all paid through the nose for the opportunity, flown south for this very excursion! Our options now were take a two hour cruise for free and have our overnight tickets refunded or take our chances on the boat and stay put in Milford for a few days until the road was cleared of slips and re-opened!

In the end it was a no-brainer. A short time later we were aboard our second cruise of the day, third in two days!! and loving the views of majestic waterfalls and Mitre Peak. Seals and seabirds entertained us, as did the chatty captain who filled us in on the history. We did a uey in the Tasman Sea and cruised back in the lee of the southern shore. Jen and I drank champagne as we passed Mitre Peak on the return as the kids and men got damp from the spray of yet another wonderful waterfall.

Driving back through the Homer tunnel, the barrier closing behind us, we marveled that such a ferocious storm could threaten when the day was sparkling blue and sunny.

Quick work by our hosts from the night before had us settling into a mid-century A frame crib, complete with knitted loo paper covers, macrame plant holders and candlewick bedspreads. The place was a classic. Every cliche from the 60's and 70's was on show. The owners, aged and fabulous, pointed us in the direction of a very good pub in Te Anau for a bang up tea!And another for an even better bang up brekkie.

Next day we woke to snow right down below the treeline on the surrounding hills. Then the rain set in and we set out for the backtrack to QT. So heavy was the downpour that we cancelled our trip on the Kingston Flyer and went straight on to Coal Pit vineyard and a wine tasting welcome from Rosie Dunphy, the owner and my dear friend.
Conviviality reigned that night, well oiled with delicious Coal Pit Pinot Noir and great food served family style at Rosies huge table in front of a roaring log fire. Accommodation was charmingly rustic in the century old stone cottage in the garden, dished up with gorgeous linens and fur throws to keep us cosy.

Unseasonal frosts earlier in spring had destroyed the prospect of a good harvest for 2013 at Coal Pit, and unseasonal rains now ruined our adventurous plans to jet boat the Shotover and bungy jump off the bridge over the Kawarau River. Both rivers in flood and metres above their banks. Instead we jumped on a gondola up Skyline where Mac did the much bigger bungy, later we 'rodelbahned' the luge racing the kids to the bottom. Views of Lake Whakatipu were magnificent from the Peak. 

The Hartshorn family discovered the amazing pie shop in Arrowtown and revisited a few times for the Butter chicken specialty pie. The men managed to get lost in the Arrowtown pub, teaching the kids to play pool, the grown ups sampling Mac's ale while we did a quick tour of the shops.

Another day the boys took the kids to the world famous Cow for pizza lunch while Jen and I turned up the dial and dined at Rata, Josh Emmet's place in QT. We took a small plate culinary tour of New Zealand's finest produce matched with scrumptious local wine pairings. Needless to say we were both in LaLaLand. Heaven.

Afterwards we schmoozed our way into a tour of glam boutique Hotel Eichardts and window-shopped Seletti by the wharf.

After a couple of gorgeous nights at the vineyard we retraced our flightpath and had another night in Auckland at Stratus just hanging out enjoying being together.

Much to my guests horror, I had them boarding another boat next day, this time just the girls accompanied me on the Coromandel Ferry. We were bound for Whangapoua where my son Nick was to join us along with our hostess Vicky's daughters. The boys and dog took the car by windy coastal road.

The weather finally cleared and we had a matchless day at New Chums beach, Jen, Pip, Mac and Vicky, took the fast route on jet ski's while the rest of us walked the rocks and bush path. New Chums is probably the most beautiful unspoilt beach in the whole of New Zealand. White sand, crystal clear water, palms swaying. No access except by foot or sea. The perfect hideaway. At last my friends tasted a day's worth of summer weather in enzed! That evening we ate foraged mussels and paua (black abalone) under the stars.

Madelaine and Cameron harvested fruits and veggies from Vicky's extensive garden, plaited flax leaves and collected shells on the beach. They loved the big house and Cameron pronounced on leaving 'that she was going to have a house like that one day'. Way to go Girl.

All too soon two weeks was up and we were saying farewell, all exhausted and ready for a holiday!!, but all headed back to work albeit in different hemisphere's.

Vowing to do it again in 2016! I do hope so.