Monday, May 26, 2014

Monet's house and Garden at Giverny

Our destination today is Giverny. The home of Monet. It's kinda scary visiting a place with such a huge reputation. If spring hasn't sprung yet the visit will be so disappointing. My heart rose as we entered the township of Vernon to see irises blooming on the roadside and roses frothing over a fence. Perfect!


Deep rose scented air after a rain shower wafting from cascades of white species roses and soft lavender irises was my first impression as I stepped from the car. Divine!

Poppies and blue cornflowers strewn across a meadow, spring green trees and hills rolling away behind was my next. Hedges, verdant potager's, rounded mounds of lavender, spent tulips piled in wooden crates, wisteria, roses and perennials too. This was just the entrance to the area. Not even at the house yet!


The garden and house of Monet are everything you imagine them to be. Cacophonous colour, low perennial beds with frothy standard roses marching down the centre, interspersed by long runs of pale gravel, bisecting the beds. The colour starts to make sense as you traverse the garden and glance down the paths where repetitive planting in waves of colour combinations wash over the garden like a rainbow. 

Unintentionally dressed to tone with the predominant colour!!

The house, familiar from books and doco's was quaint and musty. There is something in me that pines for people to live in houses and I always feel the heart of the house is gone when just left to nosey tourists.


Graham Ross of 'Australian Better Homes and Gardens' fame was filming in the garden. I spoke briefly to him in between takes.  It was interesting to see him wandering through the garden chatting away to his invisible microphone, the camera team filming from afar to get those long shots. Every now and then he'd whip out his personal camera and take a pic of a flower or vista!
 

Crossing the road to the water gardens you enter a world of the famous waterlily paintings.Crazy croaking, like the sound of a hundred angry crows, greeted us. Turned out to be a handful of mating little frogs. Eventually the noise died down completely. TG!!


Later we drank hot carrot soup and enjoyed being outdoors at the little cafe. Monet's hamlet is really quaint with charming houses all along the road, giving tantalising peeks of lives lived in this famous spot. For the garden lover or artist visting Giverny is a must do. I was tickled to be here in spring to see the roses and irises.


Sunday, May 25, 2014

Alone..(well almost) in Versailles 'Hall of Mirrors" after Royal Opera House triumphe


My American friend Alex drove me from Paris to Versailles Palace. Finding a park near the gates, we teetered across the cobbles in our heels past the throngs of hawkers and noisy tourist lines. It was a gorgeous feeling to be dressed up going to an event in such a romantic Palace. Later, sipping a coup de champagne in the long hall lined with pale statues of past Kings and Queens of France, we mingled with other guests. Meeting up with my friends Gerard and Roberto from Canada, we moved into the Opera House, taking our seats on turquoise tapestry in a little gilt box with upholstered door behind us. Fabulous crystal chandeliers blazed, gilded decorations glowed, the house was packed for the final performance of Lully's Persee presented at Versailles by Opera Atelier from Toronto. My friend Gerard Gauci is set designer.  I made this trip to Paris especially to join him at the Opera.
Roberto and I inside the Opera House (top left) The chapel at Versailles (bottom right) The palace viewed from the gardens (top right) Sipping champagne before the Opera. 
Gerard's opulent painted curtain shrouded centre stage. His marble floor stretched out beneath. From curtain up to the last tumultuous curtain call Gerard's wonderful artistry set the scene for glorious music and costumes.


The opera was a great triumph and it was wonderful to see my friend up on the stage taking his bow with the Opera Director and conductor.

Gerard Gauci (far left) and Marshall Pynkoski take a bow with the cast of Persee. 
Later Alex and I gate crashed the second only private photo shoot in the Hall of Mirrors, Annie Leibowitz being the only other photographer granted such a privilege. This famous room without people was suddenly golden and intimate and wildly glamorous!
With Roberto (at left) and Gerard in the Hall of Mirrors. 
Alex in front of Versailles and in the Hall of Mirrors. 
I couldn't resist!
A private tour of the kings apartments followed then our own photo shoot.  Alex and I slipped away down the time worn stone spiral staircase and wandered through empty apartments. Finally we found someone to unlock the Palace.

Seeing the gardens deserted we walked out and watched the sunset at 10.30pm! What an extraordinary feeling to have the Palace and Gardens virtually to ourselves. Silence broken only by birdsong and the crunch of pale gravel underfoot!

The whole evening was a pinch yourself moment and we loved every minute!

Marche Poncelet and Brocante Marche at Rue Courcelles

A brisk morning walk started day two. Alex and I strolled to her gilded Russian Orthodox Church 'Alexander Nevsky'. Worshipers intoned vespers while the Priest swung a golden orb wafting difts of frankincense over the congregation. Worshipers kissed an ancient icon, genuflecting  as they walked towards the altar. Many lit candles or wrote prayers to be read during the service.

Crossing Avenue des Ternes we meandered through Marche Poncelet where food and flower vendors display their wares with all that incredible French flair.

 
 
 

Leaving Poncelet we turned into Rue Courcelles to find the Brocante Marche in full swing. My heart sank and soared as I spied all the covetable accoutrements of life on offer. Such deliciousness. So I shopped with my camera. My pics show some of the items I'd have loved to bring home!





  Mindful of an important date at 4.30 we strolled home through the fragrant Parc on Rue Pereire.



Saturday, May 24, 2014

Roses at Roland Garros

Hong Kong Airport
Standing outside Charles de Gaulle Airport just after dawn in the chilly greyish light after two long flights (via Hong Kong) totaling 27 hours, trying unsuccessfully to escape the clouds of obligatory cigarette smoke from gasping travellers as I waited for my shuttle, I thanked my lucky stars I'd packed tights, boots and down vest necessary for Paris in Spring.

Later that day after a 'magic' shower then catch up brunch  (delicious ham, brie, baguette and pastries) with friends Alexandra and Phillipe Watrelot and their gorgeous babies, Anya and Seraphine, at their charming apartment in the 17th (just off the long narrow parc on Pereire), we all bundled into a local bus heading for the famed Roland Garros armed with umbrellas and rain jackets. It was great to get straight out into the streets, walking to and from bus, getting the feel of Paris again.




First day of play is tomorrow (Sunday), however today's event is the hugely popular day of Exhibition matches with all proceeds going to a Children's Charity. Parents in their thousands brought their children.  There was an air of carnival with clowns on stilts, balloons, music and lots of ice cream.

Dotted around the centre are several stadiums with the distinctive red clay courts, lots of side courts, all landscaped beautifully with clipped topiarys, roses flowering profusely, banks of white jasmine and hedging. We moved around watching a game here and there, getting to know the lie of the land!

Back at the apartment I took a walk to buy wine then we ate little black-blue mussels with pasta drenched in garlic, wine and butter for dinner. Délicieux.



Sunday, May 11, 2014

Mother Moira's 80th Birthday lunch in Spring Sunshine

Mum was excited when I suggested doing a 'Pig on the Spit" lunch for her special day. Locating Bronco in West Auckland, owner of Broncos Spit Roasted Feasts  who promised to deliver a gas and electric spit with a handsome pig loaded and ready to roll was a coup. Just three hours of toasty roasting on the day, delivered succulent soft pork. I whipped the crackling off as the boys started to carve and threw it under the grill perfecting unctious crackling in a matter of minutes.

A family affair, everyone brought a little something to share for lunch. Earlier, with the help of Canadian visitors Nick and Reggie, Pip and I set up a long table out back, setting up umbrellas to shade the welcome Spring sunshine at midday. Yesterday's purchase of tall olives and corokia hedging were placed around to soften the scene.

Mum was tickled pink, finally she got her wished for 'long table lunch'! I guess some things are worth waiting for!I also delivered wine and fruit flavoured jellies with meringues and cream. Also requested by the birthday girl!

Happy Birthday Mum.